There’s a Sydney import bringing community spirit – and killer goat curry – to Fitzroy, a vibrant bar and bistro putting Ghanaian spirits in your cocktails, and more.
Victoria is home to the largest population of Ethiopian people in Australia, so it makes sense that many of Melbourne’s oldest African restaurants represent cuisine and culture from the Horn of Africa, a region in the continent’s east.
But in the post-COVID years a new wave of West African restaurants has brought the food of countries such as Nigeria and Ghana to suburbs across Melbourne, following the trail blazed by Nigerian restaurant Adonai, which opened in 2017.
Becoming more widely known in Melbourne are quintessential West African dishes such as jollof rice, fragrantly spiced and reddened with tomatoes; and fufu, a doughy pounded ball – made with yams, cassava, plantains or cocoyam, depending on the country – that is torn apart with one hand and dunked into soups and stews.
But there are myriad more regional specialties to know about. We spotlight five recently opened West African eateries and ask their owners: what’s your must-try dish?
Little Lagos, Fitzroy
The success of Nigerian restaurant Little Lagos in Sydney and spin-off Lekki in Brisbane led owner Adetokunboh “Ade” Adeniyi to bring the brand to Melbourne earlier this year. It’s popping up at Rose Street’s Oko Rooftop at weekends until Adeniyi can find a more permanent home for it.
“There was a massive show out by the African community [at the launch],” says Adeniyi. But his mission is as much about offering a taste of home as is about sharing the beauty of all things West African with those who might not be as familiar.
“If you walk into Little Lagos in Sydney, you’ll think you’re in the wrong place: our customer demographic is about 50 per cent Asian, 40 per cent Caucasian and 10 per cent African,” he says. “That’s the whole point … We want everybody in each other’s spaces.”
Must-try dish: marinated goat stew ($30). “We call it the G.O.A.T, or greatest of all time,” says Adeniyi. The most popular dish on the menu, its success hinges on the thick, aromatic sauce of whizzed-up tomatoes, red capsicum, habaneros and onions.
Open Sat-Sun 4pm-9pm
60 Rose Street, Fitzroy, instagram.com/alittlelagos
Edziban, Kensington
Since last year, Ghanaian couple Angelina Dampson and her husband Papa Kwamena have been working to win over the north-west with their Kensington bar and bistro Edziban, a bright-green beacon on Racecourse Road. “[It’s] inspired by traditional Ghanaian cuisine, vibrant markets and warm hospitality,” Dampson says.
Hearty, homey dishes are primarily flavoured with spices imported from West Africa. And the best way to sample widely is to order from the dedicated share-style platter menu. Most of the signature cocktails are spiked with spirits made in Ghana, like the Alomo Gyata, which combines Alomo bitters, passionfruit puree and pineapple juice. And the couple also hosts regular bottomless Afrobrunch Sundaze events with vibey DJ sets.
Must-try dish: Empress Edziban ($29/$45). “It’s every fish-lover’s favourite,” says Dampson. Crispy fried fish is served with flavourful rice packed with chunks of fish, a “trade-secret” mix of Ghanaian spices and local herbs, plus two spicy sauces.
Open Tue-Thu 5pm-9pm; Fri-Sun noon-9.30pm
307 Racecourse Road, Kensington, edzibanbarbistro.com.au
Akwaaba, St Kilda
When Akwaaba opened on the beach end of Fitzroy Street in late 2021, it was one of the first of the recent groundswell of West African restaurant arrivals in Melbourne. Fittingly, the name means “welcome” in the Twi language of the Akan people in Ghana, where owner Ahmed Inusah hails from.
In three years, it’s created a community with its soulful Ghanaian soups and stews, weekly live African music and heart-filled hospitality, which puts curious diners at ease. “A lot of people see [dishes] on social media and they want to try them, so we help,” says Inusah. “Fufu has gone ballistic.”
Tradition is woven into the fabric of Akwaaba. “But as we go on, I want to create more of a fusion between Western food and my traditional herbs and spices,” says Inusah. His cheesy arancini balls, made with jollof rice and mozzarella, are a foretaste of what’s to come.
Must-try dish: suya share platter ($98). Eaten across West Africa, “suya is basically spiced barbecued street meat”, says Inusah. “We serve a mix of different meats, all with our own spices, on a big platter with kelewele [marinated fried plantains].”
Open Wed 3pm-9pm; Thu noon-9pm; Fri-Sun noon-10pm
29 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda, akwaabarestaurantandbar.com.au
Zuya, various locations
Suya, or West African barbecue, is the name of the game at Zuya (formerly Tasty Suya) by the Cameroonian-born Leo Chofor. It started as a pop-up before Chofor set up shop at Spotswood food market Grazeland, where the brand remains, then opened a bricks-and-mortar diner in Caroline Springs. You’ll also find Zuya on Wednesdays at Queen Victoria Market’s Night Market.
Everything revolves around a secret spice rub handed down from Chofor’s grandpa. The various meats marinate in spices for 48 hours before being grilled over wood and charcoal, giving them a unique smoky and spicy flavour, best served with a side of Afrobeats.
Must-try dish: chef’s platter ($125). A Zuya signature, ideally enjoyed between a few people, it’s a combo of marinated beef, chicken and lamb, with beef sausages made to a recipe passed down a few generations. It’s served with a fresh capsicum salad.
218-222 Caroline Springs Boulevard, Caroline Springs; 20 Booker Street,
Spotswood, zuya.com.au
Ama’s Delights, various locations
“Growing up in a small mining town in Ghana, almost every dinner was jollof,” says Mame Ama Lordia Baidoo, owner of Melbourne food truck Ama’s Delights. “We [would] gather when the food [was] ready … the excitement of everyone so ready for it.”
That, and other West African soul-food dishes she grew up eating – such as red red, a (vegan) Ghanaian bean stew made with black-eyed beans and gari (grated dried cassava) – are on offer at Ama’s Delights. She’s a regular fixture at the Queen Victoria Market, but the food truck is also parking up at the Firelight Festival in Docklands from June 28 to 30. A permanent restaurant is set to open soon in Spotswood’s Union Centre development.
Must-try dish: jollof rice with chicken suya ($24). “This dish is eaten everywhere in my country [and] is basically rice cooked in a flavour-packed tomato stew,” says Baidoo.
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