The music plays on at this Fitzroy icon, recently revived after a 22-year pause. It’s striking a chord with patrons of all stripes – including those with hazy memories of its heyday – who pile in for free gigs and $12 wines. There’s also peppery roo schnitzel, tuna tartare served in a bag of salt and vinegar chips, and South Melbourne Market dimmies with Lao Gan Ma chilli oil.