Budget-friendly, anytime recipes from The Yearlong Pantry

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Our cookbook of the week is The Yearlong Pantry by recipe developer, writer and photographer Erin Alderson.

Jump to the recipes: chipotle pinto bean stew, sesame-gochujang cauliflower lettuce wraps and ras el hanout carrot galette.

Erin Alderson puts staples squarely in the spotlight in her third cookbook, The Yearlong Pantry (Hardie Grant, 2024). In chapters devoted to grains, legumes, nuts and seeds, the Northern California-based author and founder of Naturally Ella complements more than 80 recipes with a deep dive into the many forms these core ingredients can take, buying and storing tips, and methods for preparing and cooking them.

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Part of food blogging’s early wave, Alderson started Naturally Ella in 2007 — before bloggers were making money from posting recipes through advertising and sponsored content and as social media began to take hold. By 2020, food had morphed from a creative escape to a full-time career in recipe development and photography. At a crossroads, unsure of the direction she wanted to take, Alderson stopped everything to reassess.

“I grew up understanding food through (my blog), which was warped in its own way, and then taking a step back and really digging into, ‘What do I love? What drives me when I cook?’” says Alderson. “All of that came together in the book.”

Alderson took a break from sharing content online and produced a series of 10 zines called Casual, in which she featured food purely for the love of it. “I didn’t take into account any other person except myself,” says Alderson. “I was proud of the food I created during that period, and it really felt like me. A lot of people resonated with that because I was creating things and sharing things that people were like, ‘This is what we want. We don’t want the same old, same old.’ I feel like SEO (search engine optimization) drives the same stuff over and over again.”

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When Alderson went to university from the mid-2000s to the early 2010s, getting a bachelor’s degree in business commerce and music and a master’s degree in music education, there weren’t social media classes. Now, some people have grown up wanting to be online content creators. “I have a child who’s nine. They’re like, ‘I want to do YouTube videos.’ And I was like, ‘No!!!’” says Alderson, laughing.

With cookbooks coming out by authors who started their careers on TikTok five years ago, Alderson says stepping back enabled her to consider how to remain relevant while staying true to herself. She highlights that working in any creative industry involves a shift from creating for yourself to producing for others. Alderson needed time to make things for herself again — without thinking about how her audience would receive it.

She found her way back by cooking for fun, studying cookbooks and online content, deep-diving into the whys and replacing her entire front yard with a garden where she grows many of the ingredients in The Yearlong Pantry. Returning to “the extreme basics” by learning to make pasta from scratch and exploring fermentation and nixtamalization helped her reconnect. “I wanted to know the base level of food things, which is a lot of what the book does as well.”

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Alderson’s cookbook debut, The Homemade Flour Cookbook, came out in 2014, and her second, The Easy Vegetarian Kitchen, was published a year later. During the intervening decade, The Yearlong Pantry took shape. When she pitched it six years ago, the agents she talked to were hesitant. Then, other authors started coming out with books about grains and legumes, and eating a plant-forward diet became increasingly linked with climate and health benefits. The stage seemed to be set for The Yearlong Pantry. “It felt very serendipitous because it was during that time in my life that I had moved through the transition into creating something I was passionate about.”

From cracking grains at home with a food processor, blender or grain mill to achieve a range of textures and uses to smoking, popping and frying them to enhance their flavour or change their mouthfeel, The Yearlong Pantry explores the many possibilities of these versatile staples. Since she wrote the outline eight years ago, Alderson knew she wanted the book to be ingredient-focused.

“So many of these ingredients have their own personalities. Take rye, for example. It doesn’t have the same gluten as wheat, so it acts very differently when you cook it because it has different carbohydrates that create this gumminess compared to wheat.

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“Rye is a unique and distinct grain that I felt deserved a spotlight. And, really, almost every ingredient that I work with is like that. They can be interchanged, but they also deserve to have a light on them and how useful and unique they are.”

The diversity of techniques and range of recipes highlights the opportunities of foods all too often in the background. Something as simple as cracking grains achieves varied textures, from coarse to fine. Alderson hopes to inspire readers to explore by playing with texture and making porridge, polenta or risotto with home-cracked grains instead of the conventional oats, cornmeal or rice.

“The ingredients that we have available to us are truly limitless. It’s fascinating, like the many different ways you can use a grain,” says Alderson. “The more people understand what these ingredients are, the easier they become to work with because instead of working against the unknown, you’re able to work with the ingredient itself, which creates a better end result.”

Humans have been eating these foundational foods for thousands of years. As much knowledge as Alderson poured into The Yearlong Pantry, she’s invigorated by the fact that there’s always more to learn. Over eight years of working on the book, her relationship with pantry staples has grown as she considers ways to get the most from them.

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Recently, Alderson has been fascinated by soybeans and has learned how to make tofu and miso. As someone who grew up in Illinois “surrounded by a sea of soybeans that were not destined for us to eat,” rethinking a single staple made her realize how powerful it is. “We get so much from it. And so, my relationship is just one of awe and respect for these ingredients.”

CHIPOTLE PINTO BEAN STEW

Serves: 4

Stew:
1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil
2 large onions, diced
1 tsp kosher salt
8 garlic cloves, minced
6 tbsp (90 g) tomato paste
4 cups (520 g) cooked and drained pinto beans
4 chipotles in adobo sauce, minced, plus 1/4 cup (60 mL) adobo sauce
6 cups (1.4 L) vegetable broth
3 tbsp (16 g) red miso

For serving:
2 ripe avocados
1/2 cup (24 g) fried shallots
2 red radishes, diced
Olive oil, for finishing

Step 1

Make the stew: Heat the olive oil in a medium dutch oven or braiser over medium heat. Add the onion and salt. Cook until the onion has softened substantially, 14 to 16 minutes. If the onion begins to brown, reduce the heat to medium low. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for a minute more. Add the beans, chipotles and adobo sauce. Stir, then add the vegetable broth. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

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Step 2

Place the miso in a ladle and add a bit of broth. Stir to dissolve the miso, holding the ladle over the pot, then add to the stew. Cook for another minute or so, until the stew is hot.

Step 3

To serve: Divide the stew between four bowls. Top each stew with the sliced avocado. Finish with a sprinkle of fried shallots, radishes and a drizzle of olive oil.

Notes: If you don’t have chipotles in adobo on hand, use 1 to 2 tablespoons of dried chipotle powder and supplement by including a couple teaspoons or so of dried oregano, ground cumin and sugar along with a splash of vinegar to make up for the flavours in the adobo sauce.

The stew will keep and develop more flavour for a few days but can also be frozen for up to 3 months. The beans in this stew also make a good enchilada or quesadilla filling — cook the broth down a bit and use a potato masher to create a refried bean-like texture and use as such. I’ve also been known to thicken the stew slightly by boiling until the broth has reduced, melt some cheese on top and use it as a dip for tortilla chips.

You can thinly slice and fry your shallots in a neutral oil until golden, or just buy them fried. I can usually find these at Asian markets.

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SESAME-GOCHUJANG CAULIFLOWER LETTUCE WRAPS

Serves: 4

Pickled red onions:
1/2 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tbsp rice vinegar
1/2 tsp kosher salt

Crispy oven cauliflower:
1 lb (450 g) cauliflower florets
2 tbsp avocado oil
2 tbsp cornstarch
2 tbsp potato starch
1 tsp kosher salt

Gochujang-butter sauce:
1/4 cup (56 g) unsalted butter
1/4 cup (68 g) gochujang
2 tbsp honey or maple syrup
2 tsp rice vinegar
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 heaping tbsp white sesame seeds, toasted

Wraps:
10 to 12 large butter lettuce leaves
2 cups (320 g) cooked pearled barley, slightly cooled
1/2 cup (8 g) fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).

Step 2

Make the pickled onions: Combine the red onion, vinegar and kosher salt in a bowl; set aside.

Step 3

Prepare the cauliflower: Put the cauliflower florets on a sheet pan, toss with the avocado oil, corn starch, potato starch and salt. Arrange in a single layer. Bake, stirring every 10 minutes or so, until the cauliflower is golden and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes.

Step 4

Make the sauce: Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Whisk in the gochujang, honey, vinegar and salt. Increase the heat to medium and whisk until the mixture bubbles and thickens slightly. Turn off the heat and stir in the sesame seeds. Add the crispy cauliflower and stir to coat.

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Step 5

Assemble the wraps: Lay the lettuce leaves on a large serving platter. Divide the barley among the leaves, followed by the cauliflower. Finish each wrap with cilantro and pickled onions.

Notes: Lettuce is really key to making a good wrap. I suggest butter lettuce because the heads tend to be the perfect size so that leaves are little cups. Plus, the lettuce has enough crispness to it that the leaves can hold up to a small pile of ingredients. In lieu of butter lettuce, go for cabbage leaves or a similar variety of head lettuce, such as bibb.

RAS EL HANOUT CARROT GALETTE

Makes: 1 (8–inch/20-cm) galette

Rye crust:
3/4 cup (90 g) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (60 g) whole-grain rye flour
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1/2 cup (110 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 cup (60 mL) ice cold water
Egg, for finishing

Ras el hanout carrots:
2 large carrots
3/4 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/4 to 1/2 tsp ground chili
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Small pinch ground cloves

Whipped feta:
3 oz (85 g) feta, at room temperature
1/4 cup (60 g) labneh or Greek yogurt
Zest of 1/2 lemon

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Pistachio sprinkle:
1/4 cup loosely packed (7 g) fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp roasted pistachios
Zest from 1/2 lemon
Pinch of kosher salt

Step 1

Make the crust: Combine the all-purpose and rye flours and salt in a bowl and stir to combine. Add the butter to the flours. Using your hands, rub the butter into the flour, leaving the butter in flat, paper-like pieces. Add enough cold water to bring the dough together in a shaggy ball that is not too firm and not too sticky. Form into a loose ball, place in a bowl, cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Step 2

Make the carrots: Using a mandoline, slice the carrots into strips as thinly as possible. Place in a bowl along with the salt. Let rest for at least 10 minutes. Drain any water and then add the coriander, cumin, ginger, chili, allspice, cinnamon and cloves, tossing to evenly coat the carrots.

Step 3

Make the whipped feta: Combine the feta, labneh and lemon zest in a food processor. Blitz until well combined. Alternatively, mash and whip together in a small bowl.

Step 4

Preheat the oven to 425F (220C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

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Step 5

Make the galette: On a lightly floured surface, roll the prepared dough into a 12-inch circle and transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Place an 8-inch plate, upside down, gently on the dough to leave an indentation to guide the inner circle. The goal is to leave at least 2 inches around the edge of the dough. Use a sharp knife to cut slits every 3 to 4 inches along the dough border, then carefully remove the plate.

Step 6

Spread the feta mixture evenly over the centre circle. Layer the carrot mixture evenly on top of the whipped feta.

Step 7

In a small bowl, whisk the egg until frothy. Take one of the border sections of dough and fold it over the filling. Brush with the egg, then repeat with the next section of dough, overlapping it slightly with the previous section. Continue in this fashion all the way around the dough border.

Step 8

Bake the galette for 22 to 24 minutes, until the crust is crisp and golden. Let cool for 10 minutes.

Step 9

Make the pistachio sprinkle: Put the parsley, pistachios, lemon zest and salt in a small pile on the cutting board. Chop back and forth until the mixture is well combined and the pistachios are crushed.

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Step 10

To serve: Cut the galette into six wedges and top with the pistachio sprinkle before serving.

Notes: Opt for whole-grain rye, as its slightly nutty, earthy flavour pairs well with the spices and slightly sweet carrots. If all you can find is light rye, use all rye flour instead of mixing it with all-purpose flour.

Don’t be tempted to skip letting the carrots rest in the salt. This pulls out water from the carrots, which is crucial for the texture of the carrots and prevents adding moisture to the galette.

The cooked galette will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. To reheat, place on a sheet pan in a 375F (190C) oven and bake until the filling is warm and the crust is crisp, 10 to 15 minutes.

Seasonal variations: A galette is truly a great way to showcase seasonal produce and while carrots are year-round here, I like to play around depending on the season. During the cooler months, use roasted sweet potatoes, Yukon gold potatoes, beets and parsnips. For summer, use sliced sweet peppers, sweet corn or a mix of both.

Vegan riff: Swap the butter in the crust for your favourite vegan alternative, use a soft vegan cheese or a nut cream as the base, and skip the egg wash.

Recipes and images excerpted with permission from The Yearlong Pantry by Erin Alderson, published by ‎Hardie Grant Publishing, October 22, 2024, RRP $53 Hardcover.

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